From the Amazon and the Pantanal
With great anticipation, our adventure continues as we embark on our Amazon journey aboard the "Otter".
Once aboard, gear stowed, safety instructions given, and a delicious dinner of fish, rice and manioc followed by an excursion by canoe in the dark to experience the jungle at night. The first excitement was a fish, attracted by our light, jumping into the canoe. As we cruised along the river bank, we saw numerous caiman, some as long a 8 feet warming themselves on the sand. After a couple of hours we headed back to our boat to rest as tomorrow, we would be awakened at 5:30AM to again explore and look for many of the native birds. Later, after breakfast, we then embark on a hike into the jungle where we learn about many things in the area. We find a rubber tree and see how the sap is turned into solid rubber in about a minute. As well as many varieties of trees, termites, hunter ants, tarantulas were seen. The most amazing part of the walk, having to hike for several hundred yards through spongy ground that in a few weeks will be flooded to a depth of 25-30 feet as happens every year. The humidity is total, but upon returning to our boat, a swim in the Amazon quickly made the discomfort disappear.
Rubber tree sap
The next day, with the humidity at 100% (read pouring rain) we anchored off shore and took the canoe to visit an indigenous tribe, learning of their lifestyle and how they make manioc to sell in the marketplace. As the river is in its’ early stages of flooding, we had to climb 100+ steps to reach their village. As a thank you, we bought some small trinkets made by them.
Later in the afternoon, we took one last trip via canoe up a tributary, and besides observing the many birds, we were treated to squirrel monkeys, giant sloths and many caiman but the best was the pink and grey dolphins who put on a show herding fish by circling them, forcing the terrified fish into an ever tightening mass, and then the dolphins began a feeding frenzy.
Later in the afternoon, we took one last trip via canoe up a tributary, and besides observing the many birds, we were treated to squirrel monkeys, giant sloths and many caiman but the best was the pink and grey dolphins who put on a show herding fish by circling them, forcing the terrified fish into an ever tightening mass, and then the dolphins began a feeding frenzy.
Children of the village
We now head down river to view the confluence of the Rio Negro and the Rio Solimões ((Portuguese pronunciation: [soliˈmõjs]) the name often given to upper stretches of the Amazon River in Brazil) - “Muddy Waters”. Our next stop - The Pantanal.
18 hours of travel by boat, plane, and bus, including 2 hours on a washboard dirt road and we arrive in Pousada Do Rio Mutum, an eco-lodge, miles away from anywhere. During our drive we were fortunate to spot a giant ant-eater, a rarity our guide explained. Having a late dinner before heading for bed, a tapir was spotted close to the dining room.
Awaking early to the sounds of a chorus of birds, we mounted horses for a trail ride through a variety of landscapes towards a distant lake to meet our boat to return to the lodge. Along the way numerous species of birds and monkeys were seen. Fortunate to be here at the beginning of the rainy season, most of the land we traversed will be under 6 - 10 feet of water in the coming months. In the afternoon, we took to canoes and paddled along the shoreline looking at the natural beauty of the Pantanal.
Awaking early to the sounds of a chorus of birds, we mounted horses for a trail ride through a variety of landscapes towards a distant lake to meet our boat to return to the lodge. Along the way numerous species of birds and monkeys were seen. Fortunate to be here at the beginning of the rainy season, most of the land we traversed will be under 6 - 10 feet of water in the coming months. In the afternoon, we took to canoes and paddled along the shoreline looking at the natural beauty of the Pantanal.
Capybara
Jabaru Storks
Our last full day in the Pantanal, we boated to a remote native village to see how they live, primarily as fisherman, but since the season is over, they now tend to their homes and gardens. We were treated to a presentation of how to make piraña soup, of which yours truly was an active participant in the cleaning and cutting up of the piraña prior to the cooking. Cruising the wetlands, fishing for piraña, spotting giant otters, and capybara, drifting amongst the caiman, with birds flying overhead we had a champagne toast as the sun set over our last day in the the Pantanal.
Next - Iguaçu Falls